A city’s greatness and popularity is defined by all the fabulous things there are to do there. Paris easily meets that criterion, with more museums and other attractions than a tourist could experience in a hard-charging month. But Paris’ appeal goes beyond the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe and the Seine. It is a dreamily awesome experience just being in Paris.
And that’s what we spent this weekend doing, just being here – walking the neighborhoods, soaking up the ambience, stopping in cafes to have a coffee, a beer and a bite to eat. We strolled, gazed, listened and enjoyed the feel of a variety of Parisian neighborhoods. There literally is something to behold on every block – the stylish flourishes that mark the no-compromise approach the French have to architecture, décor, and the way they prepare and display pastries, fresh meats and even department store windows.
It’s easy to walk miles and miles in Paris, because there is so much to see. Only Manhattan in our experience rivals Paris in that way, and there it is more the density and dynamic feel of the streets that holds the attention, not just the artistic details, beauty and interesting storefronts on every Parisian block.
We began Saturday with a long walk along Canal St. Martin in the northeast section of the city. The canal was built in 1845 as a primary channel to distribute goods into and out of Paris. It has an intricate lock-and-dam system, as well as canal-side parks and playgrounds. It seemed to be popular with dog walkers, and despite the chilly day, a man was navigating his remote-control boat along one section of the canal.
Popping into a café in this non-touristy area also high-contrast proof of the differences in café prices based on neighborhood. On our way to the metro we’d stopped at the swanky Le Tourville brasserie for a break. Our break turned out to be a 9-Euro, half-liter draft beer and 5-Euro café au lait. That’s a $19 tab, which included a small bowl of smoky almonds and gratuity (always added to the bill in France). But in the friendly spot near the canal, the same two items, minus the almonds, were exactly half the price, 4.5 Euros for the big beer, 2.5 for the coffee. At $9.50 that’s still not cheap by Little Rock standards, but it sure beat the earlier bill.
Next we entered the massive Gare du Nord (aka North Train Station), which is one of the large regional rail hubs and the arrival point for the Eurostar from London. There we hopped on the subway and returned to Montmartre, the highest piece of ground in Paris.
We get a daily dose of what I call our “stair-stepper workout” while using the metro (Paris’ subway) and that’s a good thing. But at the Montmartre stop, we walked up144 steps (Kelley has a habit of counting) to reach street level and another 300-plus steps to the site of the Sacre Couer cathedral. After that were more than ready to plop down on a bench and admire the panoramic view of Paris below.
(Side note: the spiral stairwells along that 144-step trek were beautifully painted in Parisian themes or styles. See picture.)
We next wandered a bit east from the base of the cathedral and found ourselves in the city’s wholesale fabric district, narrow streets rendered even tighter by the huge bolts of fabric lining both sidewalks. The area was teeming with fabric buyers – it made me wish for sewing skills.
As the sun was setting, we returned to our home base by the tower and enjoyed one of the simple to-go meals that Parisian restaurants do so well – rotisserie chicken, joined by crisp potatoes. A little wine and a lot of dinner-table conversation with Neal, Kelley’s charming and interesting brother-in-law, provided the perfect accompaniment and end to our day.
Off to church we go!
There are more than 50,000 Americans living in Paris, and the American Cathedral is one place to which some of them gravitate. Built on the swanky Avenue George V in 1886, the cathedral is stunning in its size and beauty.
It’s easy to walk miles and miles in Paris, because there is so much to see. Only Manhattan in our experience rivals Paris in that way, and there it is more the density and dynamic feel of the streets that holds the attention, not just the artistic details, beauty and interesting storefronts on every Parisian block.
We began Saturday with a long walk along Canal St. Martin in the northeast section of the city. The canal was built in 1845 as a primary channel to distribute goods into and out of Paris. It has an intricate lock-and-dam system, as well as canal-side parks and playgrounds. It seemed to be popular with dog walkers, and despite the chilly day, a man was navigating his remote-control boat along one section of the canal.
Popping into a café in this non-touristy area also high-contrast proof of the differences in café prices based on neighborhood. On our way to the metro we’d stopped at the swanky Le Tourville brasserie for a break. Our break turned out to be a 9-Euro, half-liter draft beer and 5-Euro café au lait. That’s a $19 tab, which included a small bowl of smoky almonds and gratuity (always added to the bill in France). But in the friendly spot near the canal, the same two items, minus the almonds, were exactly half the price, 4.5 Euros for the big beer, 2.5 for the coffee. At $9.50 that’s still not cheap by Little Rock standards, but it sure beat the earlier bill.
Next we entered the massive Gare du Nord (aka North Train Station), which is one of the large regional rail hubs and the arrival point for the Eurostar from London. There we hopped on the subway and returned to Montmartre, the highest piece of ground in Paris.
We get a daily dose of what I call our “stair-stepper workout” while using the metro (Paris’ subway) and that’s a good thing. But at the Montmartre stop, we walked up144 steps (Kelley has a habit of counting) to reach street level and another 300-plus steps to the site of the Sacre Couer cathedral. After that were more than ready to plop down on a bench and admire the panoramic view of Paris below.
(Side note: the spiral stairwells along that 144-step trek were beautifully painted in Parisian themes or styles. See picture.)
We next wandered a bit east from the base of the cathedral and found ourselves in the city’s wholesale fabric district, narrow streets rendered even tighter by the huge bolts of fabric lining both sidewalks. The area was teeming with fabric buyers – it made me wish for sewing skills.
As the sun was setting, we returned to our home base by the tower and enjoyed one of the simple to-go meals that Parisian restaurants do so well – rotisserie chicken, joined by crisp potatoes. A little wine and a lot of dinner-table conversation with Neal, Kelley’s charming and interesting brother-in-law, provided the perfect accompaniment and end to our day.
Off to church we go!
There are more than 50,000 Americans living in Paris, and the American Cathedral is one place to which some of them gravitate. Built on the swanky Avenue George V in 1886, the cathedral is stunning in its size and beauty. 
We attended the Episcopalian cathedral’s service at 11 a.m. Sunday and were awed by the quality of the choir, the sermon and the surroundings. We stopped by the post-service coffee hour and met several Americans, some Parisian transplants and some just passing through, like us.
After a change of clothes we headed to the Jardins des Tuileries, the long, rectangular park that stretches from the Louvre to Place de la Concorde. It was another chilly day, with just hints of sun occasionally peaking through the clouds, but that didn’t deter hundreds of Parisians from strolling and relaxing around the two large pools that highlight each end of the park.
We stopped next at the famed Angelina for one of its legendary hot chocolates (almost $9.50 for a cup), but the line queued outside the door appeared about 75 deep, so we just kept on walking down the shop-filled Rue de Rivoli. I picked up a souvenir I’d been seeking and at a reasonable price – a silver Eiffel Tower charm for my charm bracelet.
Nancy arrived from New York about 4 p.m., and when we got home at 6ish, she was still unpacking. Neil whipped up a scrumptious impromptu dinner cooked of flaky, white fish fillets, a flavorful ratatouille-type vegetable combination and minestrone – all plucked from the Janins’ crowded freezer. The four of us lingered at the table and enjoyed hours of post-dinner chat.
At last – some serious shopping!
Today, we’re off to do something I’ve read about in my decorating magazines for years. I’m so excited!
We’re going to the famed Les Puces “Paris flea market,” a sprawling collection of dealers featuring furniture, linens, art and way more. Kelley is being a patient and long-suffering companion and has agreed to accompany me.
We’re seeking a cool French souvenir for use as wall art or to otherwise decorate our home. Whether we’ll find anything that fits the criteria – affordable and fits in the overhead compartment – we aren’t sure. But I know I’ll (and hopefully he’ll) have an absolute blast!
Bye for now! 
